What’s the Most Expensive Washing Machine Part to Replace? Cost Breakdown & When to Fix or Buy New

Your washer starts howling on spin or throws a dead-screen tantrum. You’re bracing for a big bill and one question is stuck in your head: what’s the most expensive part to replace? Short answer: on most front-loaders it’s the drum and outer tub assembly (often because bearings or the spider arm fail), and on many top-loaders it’s the transmission/gearcase. I’ll show real-world costs, how to tell which part is bad, and a simple rule for when to repair or walk away. I’m in Wellington, so I’ll include New Zealand pricing alongside U.S. ranges for context.

• Most expensive: drum + outer tub assembly on front-loaders; gearcase/transmission on many top-loaders. Typical washing machine repair cost for these can rival a new mid-range machine.
• Close runners-up: main control board and direct-drive motor/stator (especially on premium models).
• Repair vs replace rule of thumb: if repair is over 50% of a similar new machine and the unit is 6-8+ years old, consider replacing.
• Before you spend: do a quick DIY diagnosis-filter clean, belt check, drum wobble test, and error code reset-many “expensive” quotes turn out to be clogged pumps.
• NZ shoppers: remember the Consumer Guarantees Act; even out of warranty, some failures should be fixed or discounted by the retailer/manufacturer.

The quick answer: what’s the priciest part and why it fails

On a front-loading washer, the costliest fix is usually the drum and outer tub assembly. The usual story: the bearings go noisy or the spider arm (the cast hub that holds the inner drum) corrodes and snaps. On many modern machines the tub is sealed, so you can’t press out the bearings. The official repair is to replace the entire outer tub with the inner basket pre-installed. That’s a big part and a big job.

On a top-loader, the heavyweight repair is the transmission/gearcase (or gearcase + clutch on older designs). When that goes, you might see oil under the machine, a burning smell during spin, or it agitates weakly and grinds. The part price plus 2-3 hours of labour adds up fast.

Other expensive parts-sometimes close in cost-include the main control board and the direct-drive motor or stator on premium models. Control boards are pricey because they’re the brain. Motors are pricey because they’re high-torque and sometimes brand-specific. Both can fail due to power surges, moisture, or manufacturing defects.

Here’s the quick hierarchy you’ll see in most quotes:

• Front-loaders: 1) Drum/tub assembly, 2) Main control board, 3) Direct-drive motor/stator
• Top-loaders: 1) Gearcase/transmission, 2) Main control board, 3) Motor/clutch

Common failure triggers:

• Bearings/spider: overloading, suds creep, detergent residue, and corrosion from trapped moisture. If you hear a deep roar only at high spin or see brown flakes on laundry, suspect bearings/spider.
• Gearcase: heavy loads over time, water intrusion, or dried seals. Symptoms are grinding, oil on the floor, or it won’t shift into proper spin/agitation.
• Control board: power spikes, vibration, or failed relays. Dead display, random resets, or unresponsive buttons point here once power and door-lock tests pass.
• Motor/stator: overheating, bearing drag, or a failed hall sensor. You’ll often get a motor error code and a hum instead of spin.

Brand-specific colour:

• LG/Samsung front-loaders: direct drive is efficient, but spider corrosion and sealed tubs push the price up when failures happen.
• Bosch/AEG: well-built, but many models ship with sealed tubs-bearing jobs often mean a full assembly swap.
• Whirlpool/Maytag top-loaders: gearcase/clutch repairs are common after years of heavy use.
• Fisher & Paykel (NZ): SmartDrive is reliable, parts are available; drum/tub assemblies and motors are premium-priced but supported locally.
• Miele: parts are expensive, but machines are built to last; repairs can make sense far beyond 8 years if the rest of the unit is healthy.

Real-world costs and when repair beats replacement

Prices vary by brand and region. Below are typical ranges in New Zealand dollars (NZD) and an approximate U.S. range (USD). Labour rates in NZ are often NZD $100-$150 per hour plus a call-out. In the U.S., USD $90-$150 per hour is common. The wide ranges reflect brand, model, and how parts are bundled (bearings vs full tub).

New machine prices in NZ in 2025 range roughly from $700-$1,200 for solid mainstream models and $1,300-$2,800 for premium brands and larger capacities. If a drum/tub or gearcase job lands over $1,000 including call-out and GST, many households choose replacement unless the machine is relatively new or premium.

Three simple money rules:

• The 50% rule: if the repair quote is more than half the price of a similar new machine, lean toward replacement.
• Age matters: under 5 years old and the rest of the unit is healthy? Repair is often worth it, especially for premium brands.
• Hidden costs: add call-out, delivery of parts, second trip, and disposal of the old unit when comparing.

Warranty and consumer rights (NZ):

• Consumer Guarantees Act (CGA): goods must be of acceptable quality and last a reasonable time. Even out of the 1-2 year manufacturer warranty, you may be entitled to a free or subsidised repair for major failures like a failed drum spider at year 3-5. Consumer NZ has case studies where retailers covered large portions of repair costs after warranty.
• Manufacturer “10-year motor warranty”: usually parts-only on the motor, not labour or associated boards.
• Home insurance: may cover water damage from a leak, not the appliance failure itself.

Evidence and reliability notes:

• Consumer NZ and Australia’s Choice magazine report that bearing/spider and electronics faults are among the costliest repairs on front-loaders; gearcase issues top the list for traditional top-loaders.
• Independent service networks in NZ and AU commonly quote 3-5 hours for drum/tub jobs due to full cabinet teardown.

Diagnose before you spend: steps, decision tree, and real examples

You can rule out cheap fixes in 10-15 minutes. Unplug the machine and turn off the water before any hands-on checks.

1. Power and lock basics
   • Check the wall outlet with a lamp. Reset the breaker if needed.
   • Door/lid lock: listen for the click. A failed lock can make the machine look dead.
2. Drain and filter
   • Open the pump filter (usually front bottom on front-loaders). Empty coins, hairpins, and lint. This alone can bring a “dead” washer back to life.
   • Run a drain/spin. If it now drains and spins, you just dodged a big bill.
3. Spin noise test
   • With the machine empty, spin the drum fast by hand. A deep growl or rumble points to bearings. A rhythmic clunk points to a broken spider or loose weights.
   • Lift the inner drum up and down. More than a few millimetres of play suggests bearing or spider trouble.
4. Belt and motor check (belt-drive models)
   • Remove the rear panel and check the belt. If it’s shredded or off, that’s a cheap part and quick fix.
5. Error codes
   • Look up your brand’s codes (e.g., “LE”, “E3”, “F21”). Motor or tachometer errors can be sensor-related and cheaper than a motor swap.
6. Water leaks and stains
   • Oil under a top-loader usually means a gearcase leak. Brown rusty flakes inside a front-loader often come from a crumbling spider.

Quick decision tree:

• Machine dead, no lights → Check outlet and breaker → Try a different appliance → If power is good, suspect control board or user interface; verify door lock first.
• Loud roar on spin + drum play → Front-loader bearings/spider → If tub is sealed, expect full drum/tub assembly cost.
• Won’t drain → Clean pump filter and hose → If pump hums but no water moves, check for socks in the sump → Pump replacement is mid-range pricing.
• Top-loader grinds or leaves oil → Gearcase time → Compare quote to new machine price.
• Error code for motor speed/hall sensor → Could be sensor or board, not always the motor; test resistance and wiring if you’re confident.

Three real-world scenarios (with numbers):

• Front-loader, 7 years old, roaring spin
  • Diagnosis: bearings shot, sealed tub; full drum/tub assembly needed.
  • Quote (NZ): $1,150 installed (part $700, 4 hours labour + call-out).
  • Choice: If a similar new machine is $1,100-$1,300, many replace. If it’s a premium brand in great shape otherwise, some repair.
• Top-loader, 9 years old, grinding + oil stain under unit
  • Diagnosis: gearcase seal leak; gearcase replacement required.
  • Quote (NZ): $850 installed (part $450, 2.5 hours labour + call-out).
  • Choice: If a comparable new unit is $900-$1,100, replacement is tempting; if the washer is extra-large capacity and well cared for, repair can be sensible.
• Front-loader, 3 years old, dead control panel after storm
  • Diagnosis: main board surge damage; door lock OK.
  • Quote (NZ): $520 installed (part $350, 1 hour labour + call-out).
  • Choice: Repair. Also check if the manufacturer will goodwill the board or if home insurance covers surge damage.

Pro tips:

• Ask for the installed price, not just the part. Include call-out, labour, GST, and return-visit charges.
• On newer models, ask if there’s a “core” exchange or refurbished part. Boards and pumps sometimes have cheaper reconditioned options.
• If the tech suggests bearings but your tub is sealed, ask if the full assembly includes the inner drum-many do, and that can refresh a tired machine.

Quick reference: checklists, FAQs, and next steps

Use these lists to save time and money.

What to check before calling a tech:

• Clean the pump filter and drain hose; run a rinse/spin.
• Confirm power at the wall and try a different outlet.
• Check for drum wobble and spin noise by hand.
• Look underneath for oil (top-loaders) and under the door seal for coins (front-loaders).
• Note any error codes and when they appear.

Information to have ready for an accurate quote:

• Brand, model, and serial number (photo of the sticker on the door frame or rear panel).
• Exact symptoms: noise type, when it happens, any leaks or smells.
• Age of machine and any previous repairs.
• Photo or video of the fault (noise, error code, wobble).

Common pitfalls to avoid:

• Replacing a pump when the real issue is a sock in the sump hose.
• Ordering a door seal without checking the exact model revision-clamps and ports change.
• Ignoring bearing roar until the spider fails and the drum shreds the seal (and floods the room).
• Assuming the motor is covered “10 years” with full costs-it’s often parts-only.

Mini-FAQ

• Why is the drum/tub so expensive? It’s a bulky assembly, shipping isn’t cheap, and fitting it takes a full strip-down of the machine.
• Can’t you just change the bearings? Sometimes, yes. If your tub splits and bearings are sold for your model, a skilled tech can press them. Many modern tubs are sealed, so the official fix is the full assembly.
• How long does a drum/tub job take? Usually 3-5 hours. The tech may need two visits if parts are back-ordered.
• Is it safe to keep using a washer with noisy bearings? Not for long. As the bearing fails, the drum can wobble and cut the door seal, leading to leaks and more damage.
• Will my home insurance pay for the repair? Typically no. It may cover resulting water damage, but not the broken part.
• What about premium brands like Miele? Parts cost more but the machines have long service lives. A $900 repair on a 4-year-old Miele can still be good economics.
• Where do I buy parts in NZ? Go through the manufacturer’s service network or reputable appliance parts distributors; ask for OEM vs aftermarket options.
• Do power surges really kill boards? Yes. Surge protection is cheap insurance, especially in areas with frequent outages.

Next steps by situation:

• DIY-inclined and out of warranty
  • Start with cleaning the filter and checking hoses and the belt. If your model has a service manual online, use it for error codes and resistance checks.
  • Bearings and gearcases are advanced. If you don’t have pullers, seal drivers, and time, it’s often cheaper to pay a pro or replace the machine.
• Time-poor or urgent (kids, lots of laundry)
  • Get two quotes if the job is over $600. Ask about part availability-waiting two weeks for a drum may be worse than buying a new washer today.
• Renters in NZ
  • Talk to the landlord before arranging repairs. The CGA and tenancy agreements often put major appliance failure back on the owner.
• Rural NZ
  • Factor in call-out and travel costs. For long distances, replacing a mid-range unit can be cheaper than a multi-visit repair.

Simple maintenance to delay the expensive repair:

• Use the right detergent and the right amount-oversudsing drives residue into bearings.
• Leave the door open after washes to dry the tub and slow spider corrosion.
• Monthly: hot maintenance cycle with a cleaner or a cup of white vinegar (check your manual for guidance).
• Don’t overload. If the drum can’t tumble freely, bearings take a beating.
• Level the machine. A spirit level and a few twists on the feet can cut vibration and protect bearings and boards.

Core takeaway: if your front-loader roars or clunks on spin, or your top-loader grinds and leaves oil, you’re staring at one of the two most expensive repairs-drum/tub assembly or gearcase. Price it honestly, compare to a like-for-like new machine, and remember your consumer rights in NZ. If your quote is high and your machine is older, replacing can save money and stress. If your machine is young and well cared for, a quality repair can buy you many more years.